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Devil’s Backbone to Harbor Island

We are headed over to Harbor Island and that means taking the passage through the Devil’s Backbone. It’s a narrow passage between coral heads and the beach around the north side of Eleuthera.

It’s recommended to pick up a pilot for the first time we make the passage, so we pick up Bruno in the morning to pilot us through. It’s beautiful but scarily close to the beach. We totally understand the need for a pilot the first time. Now it’s marked in our GPS so we can safely navigate it ourselves. The whole trip only takes a couple hours, so we head into town to explore. 

Bruno Underwood, our pilot.

Harbor Island has a lot more tourist visitors than Spanish Wells and it’s very much reflected in the swanky resorts and prices. Drinks are in the stratosphere at $18-22 per cocktail. Yikes! We spend the afternoon walking through town and shopping. They even have a Piggly Wiggly grocery store. It’s not like the stores in the states of course, but we are able to get milk which we didn’t find in Spanish Wells.

Cocktails at Valentine’s Resort and Marina

The local grocery store.

More shopping!

We spend a night at Romora Bay Marina for water and an opportunity to explore the pink sands beach on the other side of the island. It is a famously beautiful beach that really is pink! The color comes from the tiny pink shells of a microorganism called foraminifera. There are lots of resorts along this beach but it’s still surprisingly un-crowded.

Pink Sands Beach


Sunset at Romora Bay Resort and Marina

We head back out to anchor and a quiet beach, but still close to Harbor Island. It gives us opportunities to walk the beaches, look for conch and snorkel.

Beautiful island features.


Walking a beach all to ourselves.


Fun with the kayak.

One afternoon John and I head to town for supplies and pull up to the fishing pier. A man has just brought in a load of fresh conch for a nearby conch salad stand called Queen Conch. We head up there to get some and we’re in line with half the locals on the island. This is going to be some excellent conch salad! We are feasting tonight!!


Fisherman bringing in the conch. Queen Conch is the pink building in the background.



Making the conch salad.


Church on the island.

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